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If ever a destination needed no promotion or embellishment, that would be Rome. Other cities around the world may claim longer continuous habitation by humans, but no major city can outshine Rome in the sheer texture and magnificence of its millenniums of history. Indeed ‘all roads lead to Rome’ and your path will be met by some of the great Emperors of Rome, some of the most talented artists of all time and nearly three thousand years of history. Once the capital of the Roman Empire, the most powerful in the ancient western world, Rome has retained its impressive cultural, historical and artistic relevance over the centuries.
Rome, the Eternal city and Caput Mundi (capital of the world in Latin), has more than 2700 years of numerous civilizations that have coexisted here since 753 BC, when it was founded. Through the centuries it became the most sophisticated city in ‘Europe’ first in the Etruscan period and the birth of the Republic, but it mostly flourished as the strategic headquarter of the Great Roman Empire, which from here expanded into a conquest of outstanding proportions including today’s Europe, the Middle East, and North Africa. The Roman Empire marked the development of western civilisation, leaving a cultural heritage in all the areas it had stretched to. After the decline of the Empire in 476, the Middle Ages were followed by the Renaissance and the Baroque periods, which found a fertile ground to be expressed here in all their magnificent art and architecture. Following Italy’s reunification in 1870, Rome became the capital of Italy.
Samuel Johnson is famed for saying, ‘When a man is tired of London he is tired of life,’ and of Rome it might be said, , ‘He who has no desire to visit Rome must be tired of living.’ In Rome, literally every piazza, street and alleyway keeps a record of the history of its glorious past, which is, needless to say, only a part of the city’s charm.
Route 1: The Historic Center
The ‘centro storico’ – the historical center of Rome, covers an area from the Colosseum (east) to Castel Sant’Angelo (west), embracing some of the most important squares of Rome: Piazza di Spagna, Piazza Navona and Campo de’ Fiori. A walk around these surroundings will leave you breathless!
Piazza Navona
Nestled in the bend of the Tiber lies Piazza Navona, one of the most famous squares in the world! Built in the oblong shape of an ancient race track, it was constructed on the ruins of a stadium built by Emperor Domitian. With its outstanding fountains and church created by the masters Bernini and Borromini, today’s look of this ancient arena is ‘pure baroque’ in all its essence.
In early times, athletic games were held in a large stadium in what is today’s Piazza Navona. The piazza is a marvel of baroque art and architecture, and people flock here to sit and enjoy the amazing sights and sounds of Rome’s most famous piazza, where three incredible fountains grace the long esplanade: the Moor Fountain, Neptune’s Fountain, and the Fountain of the Four Rivers – the Nile, the Ganges, the Danube and the Plata – designed by Bernini and depicting rivers representing the four continents.
Along the western side of Piazza Navona is the church of Sant’Agnese in Agone notably made by Bernini’s rival Borromini and inspired by the gutsy 13 year old martyr it is named after. Agnes was a 4th century girl who refused to renounce Christianity and marry her Roman suitors. Piazza Navona is full of local artist stalls (some of significant talent), vendors of all kinds, and caricaturists. Particularly famous is the sweets market on the 6th of January (Epiphany), or better known as the ‘Festa della Befana’: a local festivity, when the ‘befana,’ an old lady/witch, brings sweets to children.
Just a short walk from Piazza Navona is the Church of San Luigi dei Francesi (Via Santa Giovanna d’Arco). This Roman Catholic Basilica was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, St. Denis the Areopagite and St. Louis IX King of France, and houses three canvases from the baroque master Caravaggio: The Calling of St Matthew, The Inspiration of Saint Matthew and The Martyrdom of Saint Matthew.
Pantheon
A marvel of classical architecture and one of the few ancient structures still intact, the Pantheon was first built by Marcus Agrippa in 27 BC, and then rebuilt by Emperor Adrian in AD 125. Originally a temple to the Greco-Roman gods, it was converted in AD 608 into a Christian church.
The outside is imposing, but the inside is glorious. Its breath-taking dome is a marvel of 2nd century engineering: its height is equal to its diameter, with no visible supporting structure, and with the only light in the building coming through an open hole in the dome’s apex. The building
also houses the tombs of Vittorio Emanuele II and Raphael, while in the piazza in front of the church stands Bernini’s lovely elephant sculpture, burdened by an Egyptian obelisk on its back.
The area around the Pantheon is the ‘financial district’ of Rome as well as the location of many government buildings. Nearby you’ll find Palazzo Montecitorio, which houses the Italian parliament and the stock exchange.
Campo Dei Fiori – Field of Flowers
Cross the Corso Vittorio Emanuele II from Largo del Teatro Valle, directly in front of the Church Sant’Andrea della Valle, and take Via del Paradiso until you reach the beautiful square of Campo de’ Fiori.
Once the city’s execution ground, today it brims with life, with its colorful flower market in the morning and the most popular aperitifs in the evening. This square attests to papal power and abuse of the time, as in 1600 the philosopher Giordano Bruno was burned here for heresy; a monument in his memory stands in the piazza today. This ‘alternative’ spirit is also at the core of this vibrant neighborhood, to which Campo de’ Fiori is certainly the focal point. Narrow cobblestone streets are named after the tradesmen who once plied their crafts here. For example, Via dei Cappellari – the hat makers’ street, or Via dei Chiavari – the lock makers’ street. For a heavenly slice of ‘take out’ pizza (pizza al taglio), try one of the two bakeries (bakery is forno in Italian) by the fountain in the square.
A short walk from Campo de’ Fiori is the Palazzo Farnese (Piazza Farnese) and the Palazzo Spada (Piazza Campo di Ferro). Palazzo Farnese, much of it designed by Michelangelo, houses the French Embassy for over a century, setting a dignified and austere tone to the flamboyant scene, while Palazzo Spada is more playful both inside and out. The facade is covered by sculptures, and in the interior, an optical illusion by Borromini makes the colonnaded gallery seem four times longer than it actually is.
Piazza Argentina
Heading toward the Jewish Quarter, you’ll cross the unique Largo di Torre Argentina, a busy square centred by Roman ruins, home of an old cat rescue association and home to many abandoned cats of Rome. The site offers a unique and much photographed mix of Roman ruins as setting for undisturbed felines enjoying the sun and the tourists’ attention all year long. The square is also home to the beautiful 18th century Teatro Argentina, and the largest Feltrinelli bookstore, while it is also a central connection for many tram and buses.
Jewish Quarter (Ghetto)
Along the river in the south-eastern corner of the area is the Jewish Quarter, still called ‘the ghetto.’ From Largo di Torre Argentina, take Via Paganico till Via di Portico d’Ottavia and you’ll arrive at the old Jewish Quarter. For over 2000 years this picturesque neighborhood has been the area of the oldest Jewish community in Europe, who settled here in the 2nd century BC. Its main road Via di Portico d’Ottavia connects to narrow streets that have witnessed both prosperity and persecution. Its beautiful Synagogue faces the river on Lungotevere de’ Cenci and is also home to the Museum of Jewish Culture. Segregation, anti-Semitic laws and deportation took place here during World War II, even in the form of physical walls containing the ‘ghetto,’ facilitating simultaneous protection and prejudice. Today the Jewish Quarter is mostly known for its relaxed atmosphere and its gastronomic delicacies (such as Jewish-Roman traditional restaurants, and Jewish/Kosher delis and bakeries).
Route 2: In and Around the City
Tridente
The ‘Tridente’ is an area extending southward from Piazza del Popolo, forking down in V.Del Babbuino, V.del Corso and V. di Ripetta, and is home to some of the most exclusive shops and homes in the city. Artists have long flocked το this area of the city as for centuries it has been a magnet for international literati such as Keats, Shelly and Byron, who had lived in Rome and now rest in peace in the non-Catholic cemetery of Rome, near the Pyramid of Rome in Ostiense. Today this area is also the most luxurious destination for high-end and mainstream shoppers.
Piazza del Popolo
Piazza del Popolo is the Renaissance gateway of the city of Rome; it is opposite Piazza Venezia and connected by the long shopping street Via del Corso. Today Piazza del Popolo is a large pedestrian area of exquisite elegance, a perfect setting for the numerous concerts and political events that are held here. The piazza is dominated by a 24 meter (~79 feet) high obelisk built in the era of the Pharaoh Ramses II and Merneptah and brought to Rome by Emperor Augustus. Art and culture lovers will be spellbound by the many sites of artistic and architectural importance in Piazza del Popolo including the Twin Churches of Montesanto and St. Maria dei Miracoli that mark the entrance roads to the Piazza. The Church of St Maria del Popolo at the northeast corner is considered to be of immense artistic value, housing paintings by Caravaggio, frescoes by Pinturicchio, sculptures by Andrea Bregno and Bernini, not to mention showcasing the architecture of Raffaello and Bramante.
The Piazza del Popolo lies inside the northern gate within the Aurelian Walls, once the Porta Flaminia of ancient Rome, and back then called the Porta del Popolo. This was the starting point of Via Flaminia, which was the road to Ariminum (modern day Rimini) and the most important route northwards. At the same time, before the age of railroads, it was a visitor’s first view of Rome upon arrival.
The Twin churches (Chiese Gemelle) of Santa Maria dei Miracoli (1681) and Santa Maria in Montesanto (1679) were begun by Carlo Rainaldi and completed by Bernini and Carlo Fontana. Close examination reveals that these churches are not mere copies of one another; both neoclassical projects vary in detail, yet also offer a variety within their baroque symmetrical balance. From Piazza del Popolo walk down the posh Via del Babbuino where you are likely to bump into some celebrities, while enjoying art galleries and exclusive boutiques till you reach the stunning Piazza di Spagna.
Piazza Di Spagna
One of the most popular spots in Rome is definitely the ‘Spanish Steps’ or Piazza di Spagna. Named after the Spanish Embassy to the Vatican housed near the base of the stairs, the Spanish Steps were built in Gallic style by a French financier between 1723 and 1726, and form an elegant staircase rising up to Trinità dei Monti (Piazza Trinità dei Monti) on Pincio hill. In the spring and summer, urns of Azaleas are displayed on the steps and fashion shows are also held here. At the bottom of the Spanish steps you will find the delightful and quirky Boat Fountain (Fontana della Barcaccia), created in 1629 by Bernini in collaboration with his son Gian Lorenzo. From the top of the steps follow Viale Trinità dei Monti to the Pincio gardens for a fabulous view of Rome; designed by the 19th century’s star architect Giuseppe Valadier, it is a favorite place for afternoon strolls or picnics.
Shopping
Rome is of course famed for its shopping and we will try to name its more well-known streets: Via del Corso includes ‘mainstream’ options with brands such as Diesel, Zara, and Puma. Via de’ Condotti is home to the most exclusive shopping in Rome, including flagship stores such as Gucci, Prada, and La Perla. Via del Babbuino offers itself for high end shopping that includes Tiffany’s, Miu Miu, and Chanel. Via Margutta is great if you’d like something unique and original, just off Via del Babbuino; all in all a great spot to enjoy brunch and discover several artists’ ateliers. Another spot not to be missed is the beautiful Galleria Alberto Sordi. Named after Italy’s most loved actor, it is a mixture of restored art deco and stucco ceiling decorations and beautiful mosaic floors, and includes many shops, cafés and bookstores.
Piazza Venezia and Palazzo Venezia
Piazza Venezia is a major roundabout of the city, while Palazzo Venezia is a palace next to the church of Saint Marco, the Patron Saint of Venice. In fact, it was the Venetian Cardinal, Pietro Barbo (later Pope Paul II) who had requested that the Palace be built here, and Palazzo Venezia was the former Embassy of the Republic of Venice in Rome. It later became the office of Mussolini, and the window from which he spoke to the crowds. The piazza is just below the Capitoline Hill and next to Trajan’s Forum, while the main road of Viale dei Fori Imperiali connects this square to the Roman Forum and to the Colosseum.
Today the palace is home to the National Museum of Palazzo Venezia. The museum offers a collection by artists such as Carlo Maratta, Gian Lorenzo Bernini, Guido Reni, Pisanello, Benozzo Gozzoli and Beato Angelico, Giorgione, Giotto, and includes stunning sculptures, pottery, silverware, textiles, medals, glass, tapestries, and enamels.
Monument to Vittorio Emanuele II
The entire area between Piazza Venezia and the Capitoline Hill is dominated by the imposing Monument to Vittorio Emanuele II. The Altare della Patria (Fatherland’s altar), also known as the Monumento Nazionale a Vittorio Emanuele II (National Monument to Victor Emmanuel II), or ‘Il Vittoriano,’ is a monument built in honor of Vittorio Emanuele, the first King of the unified Italy, and was completed in 1925. The monument is built of white marble and features stairways, Corinthian columns,